Food that really hits the mark

I HAVE had the pleasure (some times!) of reviewing restaurants and the food they dish out for almost 12 years. Yet, only the other week I was asked for the very first time what my definition of a good restaurant is.

A simple question, you would think, but one that completely threw me. I’m the one who usually asks what, on the face of it, might be construed as a soft question - the sort that brings a real frown to an interviewee’s face and makes you want the earth to open up and swallow you.

Later that night I thought a bit harder and here’s what I came up with.
Obviously the food has to be good, the service attentive but not overbearing and intrusive and the atmosphere lively but not too loud - yet not too quiet so you feel the people sitting on the next table can hear exactly what sweet nothings you’re saying to your wife, in my case.

So how did Don Salvo in my favourite part of Birmingham city centre fare on my visit just the other week? After being welcomed and taken to our table, with a great view across the whole restaurant, Mrs B and I set about perusing the impressive looking menu. It took us some time to decide and thankfully a very pleasant and drinkable bottle of Italian Cabernet Sauvignon was brought to us while we mulled over our choices.

I opted for Bianchetti Fritti, a very sizeable portion of whitebait served with a fresh-tasting tartare sauce and mixed lettuce, and my wife Fritto Misto, a selection of fried calamari, succulent king prawns and whitebait alongside garlic, lemon and a chilli oil dip. The licking of lips across the table, after the last mouthful of the starter disappeared, told me it was a hit.

It was as this point the feeling of regret set in. Both of us could only look on wistfully with the arrival of the fish main course of two other diners on a busy Wednesday evening. The beautiful aroma floated across to our table, grabbed both us by our nostrils and demanded our attention (a bit like the old Bisto ads for those old enough). Just a little hint for future diners at this Temple Street eaterie, a modern Italian that just oozes glamour and elegance.

Those pangs of regret soon disappeared though with the arrival of our main courses - filletto al pepe for me and filletto al gorgonzola for the better half. The fillet steak was cooked to perfection - red through the middle but no blood flooding the rest of the plate either - and was as tender as you could ever wish for.

I don’t say this lightly but it really was the nicest bit of fillet steak I’d ever eaten - it was like a knife cutting through through warm butter. The pepper sauce was also very good and served alongside vegetables, left one man very content. Mrs B was equally impressed with her dish. A thoroughly enjoyable meal.

Although tempted by the Tiramasu, we both declined desserts and headed off to the car talking non-stop about the food, but in particular the main courses we’d just eaten. So, using my definition was Don Salvo a good restaurant? Oh yes and we’ll be back there some time soon to try out the fish.

Don Salvo
Temple Street,
39-40 Temple Street,
Birmingham,
B2 5DP
Tel: 0121 633 3385